Sitting on a board
In the ocean
Alone, all alone.
As the new season
starts up,
the autumn swells start to come in

I begin to paddle out,
Extending my elbows,
Grasping the water,
Throwing the water behind me,
Pushing forward through.
The bubbly white water
Pulls me back
Over, and over again.

Finally, I got out to the breaking point.
I eye down the
The last day of the set,
The biggest wave of the day.

Quickly, I turn my board around,
Taking just enough paddles
To let the wave catch me.
At that moment I pick my feet up
and bring them underneath me.

They meet the wetted waxed board,
As the wave breaks behind me.
I put my hand in the
West coast water
And take a long left
All the way into shore.