How can two waves be so similar but so different? The day of the surfer’s best wave is engraved in their memory. Is it healthy or is it dangerous? The people watching from the sidelines ask each other “Do they even know what they’re doing?” What those people don’t know is that there is more to surfing than they think. The things that determine a surfer’s life or death on a maverick (very large wave) or a tube(hallow and break part of wave;barrel) isn’t just whether the board breaks or they didn’t put enough wax. Jaws/Mavericks and tubes are 2 very different waves, but when comes down to life or death there are many things others do not know.

I am not surprised a lot of people don’t know what Mavericks, Jaws, and big wave surfing is. Big wave surfing is when surfers ride 20 to 100 foot waves which many call putting yourself in god’s hands. Having the correct board and supplies is the first need I will discuss. There is a special board for big wave surfing called a gun and they usually range from 6’6 to 10 feet.  These boards are usually thicker because if you use a small board it will start to wobble. Since every wave is very different, you will notice that some guns are specifically made for a  certain place of big wave surfing (Mavericks). When you surf this wave, after it starts to crash, you will want to stay right beside the impact zone, the area where the edge of the wave makes contact with bottom rail. Secondly, you will need a very thick wetsuit, such as the O’Neill hooded wetsuit because temperatures can drop below zero because the time of these swells usually happen during the winter. It would be wise to bring water for good hydration because there have been surfers known to pass out on a wave because of dehydration and have died. If you fall of a wave that dangerous and large, you get thrust down to a place so deep and dark that you will never want to go there again. Many never think of control over your mental and physical mind and board. Fear is healthy, panic is deadly and if you panic on that wave you’re not going to make it. Confidence and being focused is also a very important attribute. If you don’t have complete control over the placing of your board, either you got the wrong board or you have never surfed before, either way you’re in trouble. Last but not least, you need to learn about the wave you are about to ride. If you know nothing about your wave, how are you supposed to know how to surf it.
"It's not tragic to die doing something you love."
Mark Foo