November 13, 2011
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I put the strap around my ankle
I pick up the board and place it in the water
I paddle out
Until I am in just the right spot
I look around
Waiting for the perfect wave
I finally see one
The water is clear
No one is around me
It is coming faster and faster now
I feel the wave start to raise me
I gradually pop up
It is now carrying me towards shore
I feel as if I am on top of the world

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