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The Art of Surfing
August 6, 2011
The sea salt air, brushing my face,
Diving under the crashing waves,
Bubbles escaping my mouth,
It's like another world, the ocean.
Reaching to the surface, I look on to the horizon.
I see the perfect wave.
Paddling hard, I wait for the right moment.
I steady my board, getting ready.
Catching my wave, I stand,
Gliding across the water with my board.
The wave silently crashes around me,
leaving a tunnel of water.
I gently touch the crashing water around me.
This feeling is unexplainable.
It's bliss.
© Matt L., Tornado, WV
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