The water roars and the sun beets down on the water. Turning it a light blue. The water curls around then over the surfer like a roof. Then the wake and the water crash down to create a huge pipe. The surfer paddles quickly to the wave then he stands up. The surfer speeds through the pipe of water that is now about to collapse. There is no turning back now so he gains speed so that the wave will not catch him. The wave now completely around him. Then he speeds up faster than the water. He uses every muscle in his body to stay balanced. Then he shoots out of the pipe. The pipe finally dissolves, the surfer full of joy that he has made it.
January 19, 2011