Anticipation of the next great ride

My mind filled with glorious thoughts
Pulling on my wetsuit to protect me from the beast
Stepping out into the granules as they wrap around my feet
The icy cold water chills my bones with incredible feeling
As I paddle out to the peak, my thoughts go blank
I can't think of anything better than connecting with a killer turn
As I paddle for a wave, my bones go numb
My mind is only focused on one thing
Catching the monstrous wave
I stand up immediately only hoping to complete my one objective
Pull an improbable turn
As I pump with my legs, the salty spray hits me with an amazing feeling
There is no better place than where I am right now
As I ride down the face, the wave walls up
The section is perfect for a gnarly top turn
I ride the wave up
I push every ounce of energy I have into this one turn.
Bang!
I hear people cheering in the background
I have achieved the improbable
Feeling starting to overcome numb
My legs are now stronger than ever
This unimaginable thing I have done
Makes me feel alive inside