The Art of Surfing

August 6, 2011
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The sea salt air, brushing my face,
Diving under the crashing waves,
Bubbles escaping my mouth,
It's like another world, the ocean.
Reaching to the surface, I look on to the horizon.
I see the perfect wave.
Paddling hard, I wait for the right moment.
I steady my board, getting ready.
Catching my wave, I stand,
Gliding across the water with my board.
The wave silently crashes around me,
leaving a tunnel of water.
I gently touch the crashing water around me.
This feeling is unexplainable.
It's bliss.

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