A Day on the Waves

December 13, 2010
The click of keys on the computer as you check the swell online.
The stretch of your wetsuit as you pull it onto your body.
The nip of the cold ocean air on your exposed skin.
The ache of your arms as you balance your board on your head with your hands.
The rustling of your feet in the sparkling sand.
The roar of the waves bouncing in the sky as you get closer to the water.
The adrenaline coursing through your veins as you paddle out to sea.
The butterflies swimming in your stomach as you dive into a huge approaching wave.
The cold water crashing.
The stillness of the sea as you wait for the ideal time to take off on the first wave of the day.
The excitement that flits through you as the perfect wave lifts your surfboard up out of the deep blue.
The work of your muscles as you vault yourself up into a standing position.
The squeak you hear as your feet slip around the wet board, searching automatically for the perfect position.
The soaring sensation as you glide along the wave.
The sinking feeling as the board’s nose dips under the water.
The sound of water rushing in around you and in your ears as you crash.
The crack of your back as the force of the flips you around and contorts your body into unimaginable positions.
The air whooshing back into your lungs as you push to the surface and finally have the ability to breathe again.
The exhilaration you feel after the fact, once you realize you made it out alive.
The eagerness you experience as you get back out there.
The voice of a fellow boarder as he comments on the surf.
The annoyance pulsing through you as your nice new friend steals your wave.
The little laugh you make to yourself as you steal someone else’s.
The tightening of a hot guy’s abs as he checks you out from the beach.
The seagulls squawking overhead getting drowned out by a passing plane.
The click of a shutter as your parents take action shots of you ripping up the water.
The blush on your cheeks as your parents do this, embarrassing you.
The wind whipping your hair around.
The thump of feet hitting sand as you jump of the board and into the water.
The urge you have to surf another run before you go home.
The groan you let out as you leave the beach.
The realization of sand scratching you in your wetsuit.
The sigh of relief your tired body makes as you take a hot shower.
The water running down your face.
The triumph you feel as you reflect on your day.
The silence you appreciate as you drift off into a deeper sleep than you’ve had in months.





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