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addicted

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the smooth finish on my new board
the smell of sex wax
a name which still perplexes me
the fresh, crisp, salty air
whipping around my hairless face

sand in between my brown toes
as i jog excitedly into the ocean
leash strapped tightly to my foot
CRASH the spray of the wave into my face
the salty water leaving a wonderful taste in my mouth

paddle, paddle, paddle, duck dive
i follow my best friend closely only a few strokes behind
muscles already aching
but i cant give up this easily
finally i make it past the white wash

outside the break, past the rocky reef
i am in a new serene environment
only that a few are privileged to see
the gentle, rolling, unbroken waves pass calmly under me
as i bob up and down, up and down

i catch a glimpse at an incoming set
turn in, face the shore and paddle, paddle, paddle,
surely i feel the momentum pass from the wave into my body,
and as i rise,
the wave crashes,
along with me
but nothing can stop me now
for i am already addicted





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