January 17, 2008
Wake up it’s one p.m.,
Grab your board and let’s ride,
The Waves that wait are full of mayhem
We’ve got to make it before the low tide.

We’re here but it is not the waves I fear
My stomach is in need of some food.
In-N-Out burger is something you must hold dear,
Burgers, fries, and a shake you must include.

Let’s ride back to the luminous Pacific Beach,
We must paddle merciless out into the sea.
You’ve got to be strong; the good waves are hard to reach,
The sun is gleaming upon me, God I feel so free.

Feeling as If I’m in the middle of the ocean,
I get my first wave, bend my knees, and stand.
The wave collapses, I fall, and it feels like slow motion,
I can’t let the wave have the upper hand.

I’m pushed back to where I started,
Discouraged and frustrated I paddle,
Here I am again, fainthearted,
Sitting on my board as if it’s a saddle.

The waves approach, we turn our fins,
The wave lifts me, my adrenaline rushes.
Confident this time I think I’ll get a win,
And yet again the big wave crushes.

Flipping multiple times underwater,
I am a puppet being thrown
The frustration within gets hotter,
I lifted my head out of the water and began to groan.

I stared back out into the surf,
My head was hurting, and everything was a blur.
I must understand that this beach isn’t my turf,
But I swiftly paddled back into the blue monster.

And yes, here I am again, back in the Cali blue
I quiver as I hear the enormous wave roar.
This time I don’t think I do…
I do the motion, stand, and I soar

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