The cool crisp air gently flowed against my face as I paddled out into the brown , and well heated surf. The rolling waves crashed into my chest as I sit upon my waxy board watching my surroundings. I can faintly see my friend through my salt water blurred eyes. I also can see children playing Frisbee underneath the broken down beach cabins laying on top of the smooth wet sand. Out of the corner of my eye I can see a perfect wave forming, and gaining speed. Paddling faster and faster, I attempted to keep speed with the accelerating wave and I know that the fun is was about to begin. I stand up and feel as if I can fly on the brown murky water of Galveston. I began to slip off the strongly waxed board, when I quickly remembered the right foot stance and I stunted my energy and turned the board. I felt very proud of my self for being able to remember the right foot steps. Finally the wave came to an end , and I hopped off onto the burning sand. That’s when I knew that would be only one of many great waves today.
January 11, 2010