I stand on the beach with my board in my hand. I observe the surf and all the conditions that make up this gift from god: waves. I watch as a surfer drops in on a clean, crisp wave and before you know it he gets spit out of the misty, undescribable tube; a surfer’s dream. I suddenly have a big grin on my face like I have reached Nirvana. I can feel the soft, grainy sand between my toes. I smell the rich salt air and I get that amazing feeling I’m home. I can hear the rattling of the white water as a wave washes up on the sandy shore. I feel the cold refreshing water wash by my feet. I start to get butterflies in my stomach. It’s a very weird feeling. I’m so excited to get out into the water but nervous at the same time. I look out into the horizon of the ocean. I begin to forget everything but what is happening in that same moment of time as if it was like an eternity. I step into the water and begin my paddle out like if it was instinct. I enter the line up. I see a perfect A-frame wave out on the horizon. I paddle as hard as I can with a big smile on my face. I drop in so effortlessly as if I almost blend in. I set out a big bottom turn and perform a large top turn on the face of the wave. I see the spray come up out of the water as my fins rise out from the lip of the roaring wave. I generate speed on the wave constantly; up and down and up and down. I reach the end of the wave. It’s about to close out on me. I turn up, ditch my board and I propel into the air. I splash back into the water as if I just won the lottery. At that moment I realize what makes life so worth living: surfing.
June 29, 2016