Hurry!
Lets go before the set comes in.
We pull on our wet suits and book it to the shore.
With our leashes rapped and board in hand.
We jump on, gliding along the top of the shimmering sea.
The rising sun a glowing pink and orange across the early morning sky.
Left right left right, we paddle like mad men to beat the set to the outside.
We made it.
Let's do this the sets are rolling in now.
Here it comes!
I slide to the back of my board and egg beater my legs.
Go! Go! Go! They scream
paddle!
I lay back on my board ,arms bicep deep in the glittering water.
I paddle toward shore like my life depends on it.
The water rushing up on both sides of my board.
My hands push of.
I jump up and turn.
The waters propelling me forward towards shore now.
I did it!
That was sick bro.