Imagine you're high in the air, the water is sprayingyour face, the wind is blowing your hair, and you're riding a six-footer. Then... crash, you're down! It's the joy of surfing, one of the world's mostadrenaline-based sports.
For me, surfing is a release for all stress. Ittakes my mind off things. Sure it's hard, but once you're on that long board,you're on for the ride. I fell in love with surfing the moment I got on thatboard, which was hard to do. The first time I tried to surf I couldn't even siton the board like all the other surfers were doing while they waited for a wave.I thought once I got on, the rest would be easy, but boy, was I wrong.
Afour-foot wave came my way and before I knew it I was pinned to the sand on myboard. How was I ever supposed to do this? I became frustrated and told myself Iwould not leave the beach until I was riding a wave! Hours later I rode one in. Iwas actually on the wave, while I was on the board! Unfortunately, my board raninto another surfer's board, but he happened to be really cute!
I'm stillpracticing. Living in Massachusetts makes it hard to surf all year round, but Ihave my wet suit, so I'm ready for Massachusetts waves! Just remember, if youwant to learn how to surf be patient - and watch where you're going.
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